The Spring-Summer 2026 menswear season brings creations that emphasize freedom, emotion and poetry. From Prada's innocence to Saint Laurent's thoughtfulness, all reject the rigid imposition of the definition of masculinity.

1. SAINT LAURENT: FROM SOFT MEMORY TO POETIC REALITY

From an old photo of Yves Saint Laurent in cropped trousers, playing tennis in the Nigerian sun, Anthony Vaccarello developed the spirit of the Spring-Summer 2026 collection: a youthful, free-spirited and suggestive memory.

“I don’t want to be stuck in the dark,” Vaccarello said before the show, emphasizing his desire to move away from the usual somber tones. And indeed, black was all but gone, leaving room for a romantic spring/summer palette. Burgundy, saffron, cerulean, aqua grey and a myriad of browns, softly draped over the house’s signature silhouettes: padded-shoulder blazers, flowing shirts, high-waisted trousers, twisted ties. The spirit of the collection also extended beyond the clothes. Vaccarello paid tribute to the generation of queer artists like Larry Stanton and Patrick Angus, who lived intensely in a time of turmoil: “They lived a life of intensity and joy, without regard for what was coming. I think we’re in a similar phase.”

And Saint Laurent, as always, chose to stand outside all trends to write his own poetry in the language of fabrics.

2. PRADA AND THE MOVE TOWARDS FREEDOM IN MEN'S FASHION

The philosophy of “Less is more” as interpreted by Prada is to eliminate unnecessary details, focusing on what is really necessary and fits the wearer . According to Miuccia Prada: “Sometimes, making a perfect pair of cotton pants is harder than creating something elaborate”. And that is also the spirit of Prada's Spring - Summer 2026 collection.

Starting from a vision of lightness, Prada offers a men’s wardrobe that moves away from convention and closer to life. The ultra-short bloomers with snap pockets, printed shirts, vinyl jackets, sporty tracksuits and double-breasted blazers all evoke something innocent and carefree.

The collection revolves around pastel colors such as terracotta, cerulean blue, olive, and light purple. As usual, Prada uses expensive accents on the clothes to keep the collection from being boring.

3. DOLCE & GABBANA'S "HOME-TO-STREET" GENTLEMAN men's fashion

Inspired by striped pajamas – a symbol of Italian elegance, Dolce & Gabbana recreates the image of the modern Italian man with a liberal style. Loose, soft pajamas with straight-leg pants, combined with oversize shirts , monochrome blazers or 80s-inspired leather jackets; all evoke the liberal beauty of a new generation. Hand-knit cardigans, thin smocks, or pants tied loosely under long coats create an impression that is both sexy and sophisticated.

In the second half of the collection, the design duo brings pajamas into the world of parties with crystal embellishments and elaborate hand embroidery – a handmade feature that is closely linked to the brand’s DNA. Together with classic sunglasses, brooches, matching clutches and casual flip-flops, the flexible accessory combinations create an attractive effect. With seemingly opposite items, Dolce & Gabbana creates an inspiring space for gentlemen, giving them new choices, balancing freedom of expression and neatness.

Article: Threads Bold

Photo: Documen